Merry Christmas!

Great Talking with everyone this morning!!! I'm glad everyone loved the gifts! The kniveswill be good for dad and Joe and Michael for hunting next year-where ever they decide to go (don't forget-when they are in their black case you must first oil with motor oil..but in the stand wipe the oil off)
What were the other guesses for the lock?
...Kevin’s with the dragon-is more for display...
Oh...
Got an email from John McArdle, asking us to get him a "Traditional Bruce Lee Black Silk shirt" from Hong Kong...
So I told him about the shirt we got for Kevin...:)

We have made many friends here in Jaisalmer-with the local people, and will be invited for a wedding (not yet planned or arranged :) in about 4 years...
We just love it here! Everyone here in the fort area has been so kind to us...
Wishing us merry Christmas, and my friend Jeetu (22yrs old), wrapped my gift for Michael, and his uncle, Gappu (24yrs) helped me buy a pie, and got me some candles, and incense for Christmas eve to make it special...
They both own shops here in town and have just been lovely to us for Christmas...
Last night they rented a jeep and we all drove 1 hour out into the desert to their friends resort (9 huts-full of guests from Pune), and we saw traditional dancing, lovely live music, got to dance with their guests, and than had traditional dinner under the stars on padded blankets!

We had a fantastic time on the camel safari, and would do one in a second again soon-for a week or 10-15 days!!! Much more comfortable than a horse, as the saddle is padded with thick blankets! 2 nights in the desert was just amazing-the stars were so beautiful/and 3 days on the camel a real treat, and one of the best things that we have done in the past 19 months!!!...
But it was very cold in the evening!

I had the 2nd largest camel names Mauria-Magoo, 5 years old...
Michael’s camel was named Tiger...
We also had a Japanese couple with us in their 50's, and woman’s camels name was Michael, so it got quite confusing at times, as you can imagine-I kept wondering what Michael had done to make the Japanese lady yell at MY Michael!!??...
The Japanese man’s camel was named Julian (he was the shortest of us people, yet had the largest camel). We called him "one-peg", he went where ever he damn well pleased as it only had one peg in its nose-so our Japanese companion could only steer it one way! It was very funny the first day when one of the guides, not yet on his camel, went running after the Japanese man, as the camel was going the wrong way...
They were a great couple to travel with and very funny!!!

The funniest story is when I asked our guide Hamid, (who was on foot, because we were going to have lunch) how to make the camel run, as I wanted to go faster...
He said to me, do you want to see running? and I said Yes!!!...
But instead of making my camel run, he took off running about 200 yards!!! I was laughing so hard I almost fell off the camel (about 15 foot drop)...:)...
He was a great joker!!! later that day we got to run the camels-which was wonderful...
They are just amazing animals-yes, it even beat the 1 1/2 hours on the elephant in Nepal!
All for now, love you all very much and can't wait for Christmas next year! Or, as I keep telling Michael, in March when we get home!!!

Luv you all, SG =====

Hello from Jiapur...

We went to Amritsar and saw the lovely Sikh Golden Temple...
Lovely people...
No charge for seeing this gorgeous place, and most importantly no hassles. What amazed us was that everyone wanted to take a photo with us...
Don't know why...
Perhaps they get the WWF (world wrestling federation on TV) here too, like in Indonesia, Vietnam and Malaysia-where they all thought that Michael was the professional wrestler "Big Boss"...
Also, everyone wanted to know where we were from, and if we wanted to know more about their lovely temple!
Then we were on to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal...
Which they can keep, as it is a rip off and the city has a very corrupt government-but the people at our hostel were just lovely and very helpful and sympathetic to our following plight:

We saw the Taj yesterday and it was lovely, but a major rip off at $20US...
They told us that this ticket would enable us to go into all the other forts/attractions (about 5 of them) on the same day at no charge-LIARS!!! So, we only saw the Taj...

Our Hostel was fantastic we had a rooftop restaurant with a view of the Taj, just 300 yards away-but much pollution!

India has a Bi-Polar personality...
Either you meet lovely, friendly, honest, helpful and fantastic people (about 10-20% of the population) or you meet the people that should drop off the face of the earth-good reason for government instigated birth control!!! The things that we have seen and have said to us have just been mind blowing!

Yesterday, while walking through the neighborhood to the Taj, we stopped to talk with some young boys (about 6-10 years) playing cricket...
When all of the sudden, some, young smart-ass throws a bucket of water off the roof...
And gets who gets it??? Yes, ME!!! I hope that they were trying to hit their friends playing cricket, but odder things have happened to us here, that makes one wonder about this society!

I have always believed in reincarnation, and the old adage-"what comes around, goes around"...
You can love India and Hate it at the same time-and it is because of the Bi-Polar people...
I have never believed in a caste system, but see why there is one here...
We arrived in Jiapur this afternoon, and it has been nice so far...
We are in a lovely hotel that used to be owned by someone that had a title similar to a "lord" in England-very nice, and hot water!!! Huge gorgeous lawn, lovely flowers, bougainvillea in bloom!!! We'll be here for 2 nights and leave on the night train for Jodhpur (16th at 11:30pm) and will only be in Jodhpur till the 11:30 train to Jailsamar-which is supposed to be lovely, friendly, and less hassles...
This is where we will do the camel safari...
Jaisalmar is also know as the Arabian 1001 Nights...

All for now! love and peace!
SG

Tashi Delek from Mcleod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh!

Hi Everyone!
When I last left you we were about to take off on a flight around Everest, and it indeed was cool. We woke up many hours before dawn, caught a cab to the airport, only to find our flight delayed for 6 hours! To add insult, we also had to pay a departure tax - even though we were not going anywhere! And worse - they charge VAT on the departure tax! That’s Value Added Tax on a tax! What may I ask value does a departure tax add that they feel necessary to tax it????
After the flight we realize that it's election day back home - so off we go to the internet to find out that we don't have a president... Boy are we glad we're not home - I imagine that the election farce is getting all of the coverage that both OJ and Monica enjoyed - we could tell that this was so because when we went into a bar that had ESPN on the TV they interrupted a major sporting event with a bulletin that said: "Breaking News: Still no election results" - what is so breaking about that????
The election had SaraGrace sick - so sick that we decided to see a doctor. Well, it turns out that Mssrs Bush and Gore were not to blame as SaraGrace had the Big G! so I've been calling her SaraGiardia in revenge for all of the ribbing that she's given me the last 4 times that I've gotten it. Don't worry Helen, She took some meds and is now back in fighting form.

So, after all of this we decide to head on into India - but as there is a nationwide services strike in Nepal at the time of our departure, we decide to change our flight to leave a few days later. Well, to do that requires playing by Nepali rules - i.e.: you need to find the Royal Nepali Airlines office which has no published address, and then once there wait in line to be given a chit to go upstairs, then go upstairs and search out the correct person in a building with no nametags or department names anywhere to be found - then get another chit to return downstairs to the original queue that you were waiting in to get your new ticket...

I won't even go into our arrival in Delhi - SGK covered that quite well, but I will quote our friend Randall "It's our God Given right as Americans to hang out in McDonalds for 5 hours if we want to!" and to point out that if you do go there - the Maharaja Mac (like a big Mac but made with Lamb) is quite good.
We are now in Mcleod Ganj - Home of the Dalai Lama and have seen him virtually every day we've been here. We also have taken up teaching English to Tibetan refugees - This is great fun, and we have learned quite a bit about their troublesome crossings into India. We ourselves are planning to visit Tibet just before we go on the Trans-Siberian train - and when our students have learned this we now get to take Dave Montgomery’s job from him - They have all given us letters to bring to Tibet because apparently any letter mailed to Tibet with a postmark from India never arrives. We originally had planned to stay here only long enough to get a chance to see the Dalai Lama - but we've already seen him heaps, and we've been here for 20 days already! What's kept us here? Good company (you all know who you are!), interesting classes, interesting refugees, and just a great place (although it looks grungy). I'm not going to say much more about Mcleod Ganj as I know SGK is bursting with experiences here that she wants to relate, so you'll all have to wait until next time to hear them.

Where do we go from here?
Well, tomorrow we board a train at 5:58am to Amristar - home of the Sikh Golden temple then on to Rajasthan!
Cheers!
MRA

HH The XIV Dalai Lama

Dear Aunt Joan,
Michael and I are still in India, although it does not feel like India, as we are still in Mcleod Ganj, the home of the Dali Lama and many of the Tibetans in Exile from their homeland!!!

We have had a lovely time here and have seen His Holiness The Dali Lama several times and he is really a kind, caring, and compassionate man-many of the world leaders should take lessons from him!

Last weekend we attended his 50th year celebration of his being in charge of the Tibetans in Exile in India-the celebration was wonderful-he really is an amazing man...
Many people had been waiting for him at the temple since 5am, (we got there about 7:30am) and he was not due to come out till 9am, but came out early at 8:15am...
He also had the monks come around to all the people and give out chai tea (milk and sugar, tea-just yummy) and bread, fruit, biscuits to eat...
Now tell me...
When was the last time you saw a political/religious leader feed his people, and make sure that they were comfortable!!!???

In the mornings we have been taking Dharma classes on Buddhism-which has been fascinating, and in the evenings helping the Tibetan Refugees learn English from 5-7pm...
Our days have just been filled with some amazing experiences, an we have met some lovely friends from Tibet, and the Western world!!! We have also heard some of the horrible things that had happened to the Tibetans before coming to India...
Tomorrow we head out on the train (missing the Dali Lama's celebration of winning his Noble Peace Prize 10 years ago)...
To Amristar, the home of the Sikh Golden Temple-which is supposed to be absolutely beautiful, then on to Rajasthan, then on to see the Taj Mahal!

We still don't know where we will spend Christmas or New Years, but hope to find a Christian place to see how they celebrate it here in India.

I hope you have a lovely Christmas, and New Years!
Love and Peace,
SaraGrace and Michael

Oh India!!

OHHHH, India!!!!!

Tashi Delek from Mcleod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh!

We are in India...
Up yesterday at 5am...
Taxi to airport at 5:30am...
In line forever to scan our bags and buy departure tax, (CHAOTIC) then get inline to check bags and get seats...
Lucky for us they were in 'business class' just behind first class-I think it is because that it was a full flight and we were in line first to get seats! Yeah, good karma!!! only departed 15 min late (8:45am)-not too bad...
Especially when Royal Nepal Air, (RNA) which stands for Rarely Never Arrives, or something to that effect...
We arrived in India about 10:30am...
Got to Delhi (which I would not wish on my worst enemy)...
It all started with all the lies that they tell!
first lie-an announcement comes on the speaker that there was no baggage carousel for our bags so we had to wait, and wait, and wait, and wait...
There are 6 baggage claim carousels and only ONE was being used, and, get this...
We were the only flight in!!! I don't get it! Just tell us that there is a delay in the handling of the baggage, don't LIE!!! You also would not believe the smell of marijuana in the baggage claim area, the lobby of the airport, and the parking lot area, it was just incredible and unbelievable! Hell, by then, we could have used some...
Then all the counters had signs that said TAXI Strike-typical (lie #2) !!! Even the police counter (where the book says to buy your taxi tix-so you don't get ripped off)....
They lie as well...
No one would drive us...
But oh, yes they will, for 450Rp each (about $10US/person)-a fare that normally cost 100Rp total, not per person...
We finally got the dirt that it was not a taxi strike, but that the government closed down some neighborhood factories due to pollution...
And the drivers were just plane bozos! LIES, LIES, LIES!!!

We hopped on a 50Rp bus to the New Delhi train station-met 2 lovely Indian men that helped us out...
One a doctor from OH, on vacation, and the other an assistant bus driver (the guy that takes your money), who was busy pointing out all the sights to M and me through all the smog! Just a very lovely men!!!

Then the train station...
Cologne, take me away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...
ANYWHERE BUT HERE!!!...
We were accompanied by 2 young (23yrs) girls from Australia-one of their sisters had recently been to india and told us to go up on the 2nd floor of the train station and buy our tickets from the Tourist Ticketing office...
Not the main floor where all the chaos is-and believe me, if you have never been to an Indian train station, you have NO IDEA what CHAOS really is! People sleeping all over the dirty floors, going to the bathroom in the parking lot, etc, pulling you, asking you questions that are basically NONE OF THEIR BUSINESS!...
I took the lead and led the way, not making eye-contact with anyone and not listening to anyone (my other 3 comrades-M included, were listening to all the bullshit and lies that the local trainies told...
(sorry about the swearing...)
We found the stairs-Yeah! A feat in itself, as there are over 200 people in a very small area...
A man ran in front of me, I plowed through him...
It was a major feat on my part-being that he was about 6'4 and 225 lbs, and I am only a mere 5'6"...
Meet liar #3 (no, not me, the BIG GUY!)......
He tries to jump in front of me again, this time with a pen, (oh, my) and says that the tourist booking office is closed due to the Muslim holiday...
Ok, first of all Dehli, is NOT a big Muslim area, and second, by now, I'm on the 2nd flight of stairs and can see the office and all the westerners buying tickets! I plow on again, and call him a LIAR, and he calls me something in Hindi-which I choose to ignore,because-

1. My Karma is good
2. He is a HUGE-ASS LIAR, and
3. What comes around, goes around, and
4. He will be re-incarnated as a dung beetle, that gets squashed by an elephant (one of my favorite animals, actually-the Hindu God Ganesha actually comes to mind)...
   Go Ganesha!!!

I have had it with this country that is full of LIES (my perception of Delhi, anyway!) we buy our tickets...or try to...an Indian guy with an American passport, yes American...
Cuts in line, in front of a very lovely Indian man, and my lovely Michael-there is a 'slight' exchange of words between Michael and the nice Indian man with this RUDE AMERICAN...
And even more words are exchanged when I get there...:) ...
Something about having his American passport revoked rings a bell :) I am losing it, and losing it FAST!!!

Too much Irish in my blood, I think, and too quick of tongue, which I'm told, should be locked up at times!!!

We purchase our tickets to Pathankot, about an 11 hour train journey...
YEAH...
We're on the 9:50pm train that evening (and sleeping births to boot!)....
We catch a cab (oh, yes, they are NOTon STRIKE at the train station-hmmm, don't ask,it will just make you go crazy!~!!) to our favorite American Restaurant....
One that feels like home and the food is always the same-kind of like CHEERS, with Norm and the Gang, but with Burgers and Fries and Ronnie McDonnie!!!
Anyway, we actually hang out at Mc'D's for 5 hours!!!! I AM NOT KIDDING!!! We get a lot of reading done, and no one there lies to us, or asks us to leave, THEY LIKE US!!! Hey, India is getting better by the minute!!! But I must tell you that a Maharaja Mac is nothing like a Big Mac...
But the fries were delicious!!!

Back to the train station...
More hassles, but I am in my ZEN mode now, after my Mc'D fix, and M and I are speaking Spanish to each other-which helps-this gets the Liars to go away and leave us the HECK alone!!!

On the train platform we meet a lovely man who travels in to Delhi 2xweek, who explains to us that all the people in this city are "cheats, and liars" Yes, it was his direct quote!....
He shares some fabulous travel tips with us and some cool, remote, and relaxing places to go!!! Thanks Roger!!! The train was fantastic...
2nd class, air-con, large beds...
We would have paid anything for first class, but it did not exist on this trip, and the conversation with Roger was the best!

Once in Pathankot, we bought another train tix to Kangra, (only an hour layover) closest train spot to Macleod (where the Dali Lama resides)...
This time, no assigned seats (hard wood seats at that)....
But we plowed onto the train like you see in all the Hindi movies-Indian style...and got ourselves some seats, hey, I think we are getting the hang of this!....
4 hours 15 min later we arrive in Kangra-very small village and we had a look around...
We walked up to the "abandoned police station" and had a man call us a cab....
Very odd, I know-abandoned police station, and all that...
But since we have been in S.E. Asia for so long, it is better NOT to ask WHY, just ACCEPT, as it is the asking that will drive you NUTS!

The taxi ride was lovely...
Only 20km to Mcleod, but took over an hour...
We are staying at the lovely Om Hotel-gorgeous view overlooking the valley of Dharmsala! We even have a hot water heater for the shower!! Believe, me its a huge bonus, as it is quite cold here, and having a water heater is something of a rarity! It's very peaceful here, an no one has tried to sell us knives, or Tiger Balm (yet!), or tee-shirts, or Hash, or Jiggy Jig!!!

So...
Basically we have been on some sort of transport for the last 36 hours...
Time for a "time-out", (as Christina, Alex, and Micelle would call it) a nap-but being that it is about 8pm, I think I'll retire now!

Tomorrow we plan on looking into some meditation and yoga classes, and see if the Dali Lama is going to be speaking this month...
M may even take a Tibetan or Indian cooking class...
We have made it to our first destination in INDIA, and we are feeling frustrated, exhilarated, and HAPPY!!! A lot of emotions to feel all at once!

Happy Turkey Day, and write when you get a chance!
luv,
SG

Hanuman Ghat and more

Hanuman Ghat and more
19-Nov-2000 thru 21-Nov-2000

Hanuman Ghat is a bathing spot on the side of a small (and putrid) stream in Bhaktapur. Legend has it that this is one of the spots that Hanuman the Monkey God rested on his flight back to Sri Lanka from Tibet with Mt. Kailash gripped in his hand.

Well endowed Shiva



Ganesh
Shiva's son, and the remover of obstacles. The Librarian to the gods.


Hanuman the Monkey King
Hanuman is holding Mt. Kailash in his right hand



Dolls hanging from eaves



The animal Kama Sutra Hathi (Elephant)



The animal Kama Sutra - Bahg (Tiger)



The animal Kama Sutra - Kiwi (Sheep)



Shrine with Shatkona
No, these cows are not looking up at Solomon's seal...


Shatkona
It's not Jewish it's Hindu.


Swastika
Not Nazi; it's Buddhist


Small Ganesh



City center



Last view of the Himalayas on our flight out

Bhaktapur

18-Nov-2000 thru 20-Nov-2000

Bhaktapur is an ancient Newar town in the east corner of the Kathmandu Valley. Along with Kathmandu and Patan, it is the third ancient capitol of Nepal. The male inhabitants of this city wear a special type of cap called the Bhaad-gaaule topi. This city is famous for its yoghurt called King Curd.



It's a world heritage site
Stone says:"World Heritage"



Flower on the rooftop of Pagoda Hotel



Nyatapola Temple
This temple is dedicated to Lakshmi and tallest in Nepal


The texture of beer foam



Drying saris



What a good looking couple!



Playing



Stairwell in alleyway



Potters wheel



Temple in Durbar Square



Elephant on Nyatopala temple




Gaspode!



Rhino in Durbar Square



Gargoyle-like merlons on the stairs



Sculpture in Durbar Square



The back of a Garuda



SGK smirking



Alleyway



Cornice sculpture
Not a gargoyle. Gargoyle's specifically function as drain spouts.


Masks



Looking at fish
I asked these gentlemen what they found so fascinating below this bridge. "Fish" they answered


Interesting roots

Newari Faces

The Newari people are the single largest ethnic group in Nepal. All of these photos were taken in Bhaktapur

18-Nov-2000 Thru 19-Nov-2000

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Denizens of Potters Square
Denizens of Potters Square














The 10 year old boys name is Sunil and two of the others are Prajapati and Bolachen





The old man's name is Harakay Bhadur









The woman is Ganey Svwal






Children showing off for the camera at Nyatapola temple



Reading their lessons



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